Where does a Benedictine go on vacation?

To the world’s oldest Benedictine monastery, founded by St. Benedict himself!

When I had the opportunity to travel to Italy with Benedictine Footprints, a contemplative, cultural, culinary retreat to lesser-known sacred sites led by Judith Valente, Benedictine oblate and writer, I knew I had to add a few days to the trip to visit Subiaco, Italy, the birthplace of Benedictine spirituality in the sixth century.

I had previously traveled on pilgrimages to Benedictine monasteries in Germany, where I met Fr. Jim Secora, a Catholic priest from Iowa. I was inspired by his homilies when he celebrated Mass, and delighted when he joined our oblate group. Jim had recently been to Subiaco to visit the ancient pilgrimage site, Sacred Speco, the cave where St. Benedict lived for three years, and to the Monastery of St. Scholastica, the only monastery left of the twelve Benedict founded.

Fr. Jim Secora and friends on the 2014 Benedictine Pilgrimage I participated in.

So, I asked Jim for his travel tips and advice. He replied by quoting the Rule of St. Benedict—

Jodi, You and Pope Leo visiting Subiaco in the same year!!!

As for any “tips”, I would simply go back to the first line of the Prologue—”Listen, my son and daughter to these words of someone who loves you and attend to them with the ear of the heart.”

Practice good “visio divina”.  Drink in the beauty of the mountains, their shapes, their colors.  Listen to the stories of the frescoes. Pause in silence before the cave with the statue of St. Benedict, where he lived for three years. (Directly across the hall from the cave is the chapel where I celebrated Mass for our group.)  Let all of this speak to you, imprint itself on your heart.

This is the best advice I can give.  Well, don’t forget to stop at the gift shop and think of Bro. Andrew!!!! Peace, Jim

His advice was pure Benedictine, rules of the road so perfect that it brought a tear to my eye. It wasn’t about eating at a highly rated restaurant or ticking off sights on a packed itinerary. It was “Nothing harsh, nothing burdensome,” as Benedict wrote (Rule of St. Benedict, Prologue 46).

I promised I would be present and listen—the best advice for a Benedictine, for all of us, in all situations.

Many who visit Subiaco often make the 90-minute day trip from Rome, but Joanne, my travel companion, and I decided to stay in the village for two nights before we met up with the Benedictine Footprints group.

On our first day, we planned to explore the village on our own. This is where some tactical advice might have helped. Not one person spoke English, not even the lovely people who worked at Palazzo Moraschi, where we stayed. They tried so hard to communicate with us, getting a little louder and e-nun-ci-at-ing so carefully, and still, we could not speak Italian. And no matter how many times we repeated ourselves, they could not speak English.

But with Google Maps as our guide, I thought we could find our way around. We enjoyed the quaintness of the winding, centuries-old cobblestone paths, noting the lovely flower boxes; terraces with doors wide open, welcoming the breeze; artists capturing the shadows of sunset; quaint neighborhood chapels. But after a wrong left turn, Google Maps sent us onto a high-traffic road with no sidewalk, and into a part of town we didn’t know existed. (Note: when recalculating routes, Maps may convert from “walk” mode to “drive.” Not ideal.)

Despite the circuitous route we took to find a restaurant, we enjoyed the beauty of ancient Subiaco. For our first day, we had quite the workout going up and down these cobblestone streets.

As darkness descended and panic was just about to set in, a very kind woman named Benedetta (…the feminine name for Benedict, seriously!) asked if we needed help. She must have noticed the universal look of a lost face. No Italian needed for that. She was so generous with her time, walking with us to more familiar territory and even calling her daughter, who spoke English, to help translate. Their kindness was a blessing—and we were (absolutely) present for it. (Note: We had staked out a place to eat earlier and when it didn’t open at 7:00 as advertised, we went to find another. After our hour-long adventure, we arrived back at that very restaurant, open and serving diners. Apparently a 7:00 opening is just a possibility. It may open 10 or 30 minutes later, whenever the family running said restaurant is ready. This was helpful to know for dinner the next day.)

On our second day, we were grateful for our driver, Bruno, and Martina, our tour guide. Martina not only spoke English, which we were extremely grateful for, but she was also very knowledgeable about St. Benedict and Subiaco’s history, dating back to Emperor Nero.

The Abbey of Saint Scholastica, originally founded around 520 AD by St. Benedict, is the oldest surviving Benedictine monastery in the world. It is the only survivor of the twelve monasteries St. Benedict established in the Aniene (Holy) Valley, and the site of the first books printed in Italy in the late 15th century.

Abbot Umberto built the bell tower, the oldest in central Italy, in 1052-1053. Many moments of silent beauty, with the play of shadow and light reminding you of the passage of time. If these walls could talk…

Sacred Speco (Sacred Cave) of Saint Benedict, the cave in Mount Taleo where Benedict lived as a hermit for three years, in Subiaco, Italy.

The entrance to the Sacred Cave leads to a statue of Benedict by Antonio Raggi (1657), a disciple of Bernini. There are twelve lamps represent the twelve monasteries St. Benedict founded.

As Jim remarked in his note, both Pope Leo and I visited Sacred Speco this summer. During a surprise morning excursion on Wednesday, July 22, 2026, Pope Leo XIV travelled by car from Castel Gandolfo to the Monasteries of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica in Subiaco. Vatican News Of course, I kissed the statue of St. Benedict, keeping with tradition.
Left: Mary, Mother of the Church. Center: Last meeting of St Benedict with his sister St. Scholastica. Right: St. Benedict with Benedictine Saints.

Martina and Bruno were a godsend to Joanne and me. No worries taking wrong left turns, finding restaurants or reading signs in Italian. Martina spends each day taking people to the sacred Benedictine sites and giving tours in the ancient village that used to be at the bottom of Emperor Nero’s artificial lakes. Subiaco means “under the lake.”
Travel writer Rick Steves teaches that the restaurants who have the most authentic fresh food that locals love, do not have menus in English. We had no idea what we were ordering and it was delicious!

And, of course, I visited the bookstores at St. Scholastica’s and Sacred Speco. I managed to buy one book in English, but I accidentally bought the other in Italian. Makes perfect sense for this trip! (Fondly remembering Brother Andrew, who ran the St. Benedict Center bookstore and who passed away one year ago today, October 5.)

The hospitality of strangers, amazing food, magnificent frescoes, breathtaking vistas, and the sacredness of kneeling in the same cave that St. Benedict did 1500 years ago leave an imprint on my heart. Jim’s advice to listen prayerfully, practice visio divina, and be fully present is not just sound advice, but reminiscent of what St. Benedict wrote in the Rule he left to his monks. These “rules of the road” are the foundation for being Benedictine in daily life AND on vacation.

More Benedictine “rules of the road” to come as our group spends twelve nights in Guardiagrele and two nights in Rome. Some sneak peek pics below.

We spent a day on the Benedictine Footprint pilgrimage, hiking to the 9th-century ruins of the Benedictine monastery of San Martino in Valle. Located in the Maiella National Park, the ruins are typically off-limits to tourists, but our group was able to walk through, see the chapel and crypt, and have our daily prayer and contemplation. I was so impressed with the altar of St. Benedict and the carvings that have survived. For 1000 years, until the 1800s, Benedictines used this monastery.
The energy and excitement of being in a papal audience were palpable, especially when Pope Leo drove by so near to us. That’s me in the hat—waving with one hand, filming with the other. Pope Leo and I made eye contact, and he smiled. Such a serene smile. He gives me hope. Full text: Pope Leo XIV’s general audience given September 16, 2026

© Jodi Blazek Gehr, Being Benedictine Blogger